10,000 Crows and Six O’clock Minarets
Kolkata, India
6:00pm
I have never in all my days seen so many crazed birds. It feels like we’re in the Alfred Hitchcock movie called “The Birds”. Almost every single tree has at least 3 or 4 large, scrawly birds nests with a couple of crows hanging out of them. I can hear sparrows, but all I can see are crows – lots and lots of big black crows. NZ has a huge number of bird varieties, but locating their nests is so much harder. Here, they’re everywhere.
It’s hotter than hot: Liquid heat! We’ve just arrived back from a successful day of renovations at Freeset, need a shower and we will set out to a restaurant we found that cooks up ‘mean meals!’ Two of us, all we could eat, Rs440 ($NZ13.00) while of course we had to step over the half a dozen beggars to get in the door and a handful of homeless. Yes, you read me correctly and It totally messes with our heads!
Then there are the dogs. dozens and dozens of them, all sleeping, right in the middle of the footpaths, occasionally wagging their tails, but never ever menacing. All of them are completely docile and uninterested in all the passersby. I’m guessing they are trying to copy the humans; “if i lie here, right here, in the way of everyone, then maybe I’ll get a scrap of something too.”
The people living on the street fall into two camps from what I can see. There are the truly destitute; those who beg: Either by force from childhood, or as a result of ruination from drugs, or they are a refugee from Bangladesh. Seriously, you have to make a decision every minute of the day as you walk to and fro, with a little girl ever so gently tapping on my drink bottle with her hand out looking up at Corbin and me. If you have to stand in the same spot for more than a few minutes like we were doing with our American counterparts to cross the road, it seems like an age when someone like this is quietly standing way inside your comfort zone space.
Did we give her anything...?
Add to this are the homeless. They don’t tend to beg you for money or anything. They’re busy trying to organise themselves with what possessions they have left. Maybe they lost a job, or got themselves into a situation and have nowhere to live so they just live on the street.
One couple we spoke with send their children to pre-school, the mother has a job and the father is waiting to find a new one since he lost his existing job in telesales because the authorities shut down the company he was working at for. The monsoon isn’t far away. I have no idea what they are going to do. Its ok when it rains once or twice in a fortnight around here, but when knee deep water arrives in a month....
He and his wife believe strongly in the Lord Jesus. The wife is an attractive, well kept lady who greets us everyday we walk past her on the way to the train station.
Right outside BMS’ front gate on the footpath, like most roads in Kolkata, the roadside is covered in stalls selling food. Add to this the beggars, the dogs, the constant barrage of crows and the homeless with myriads of professional office workers who are beautifully clothed, walking around all of this to work and the never ending honking and tooting of every form of vehicle ever invented... and you have Kolkata...!